​Day 4. Laguna Escondida -Laguna Rocallosa 

My tent was OK with the wind. And the rain that started around 3am. At 8am I have a look outside and only see fog and rain. I close my tent quickly again, sleep, read and as I can’t hear any rain anylonger I finally take my breakfast and decide to go at 10.30am. It’s quite luxury to be trapped on an Island! As I know I won’t have a flight before 5 days and the trail ahead is short, I allow myself to take a rest and not always push on. 

I just love this landscape with so many lakes, mountains, trees especially beautiful now in autumn. Even on a grey day it’s gorgeous. Not gorgeous on the other hand is the wind and rain that is waiting for me on top of Paso Ventarron. I have to quickly pack away my camera and other things and put on my rainclothes before continuing the trail in the rain.

Once down from the pass and all that rock scrambling, it’s back in the mud and wetland. Before Laguna Martillo the sky looks clearer and when I arrive at the lake the sun is out. Time for a lunch break! It only took me 2h to get here instead of the 4h30 of the guidebook and I realise that without my detour to Lake Windhoek I could have done this trail in 3 days. 

After drying a bit I continue, considering even hiking over the next pass and reach the last campsite. It’s so beautiful! Colourful trees everywhere and plenty of views from some higher hills. At around 3pm I am at another small lake and hike up for a view, finding a perfect little campsite for me. Checking my GPS I realise I went wrong and should be on the other side of the lake. Even better, it will be just me! And why continue, it’s Monday and I have only 12km to walk to the end of the trail and my flight is only on Friday. The sun is now shining brightly so I can dry all my gear and clothes while admiring the view. In between I read, do some stretching, cook. With the sunset the view gets better and better. I don’t think I ever so such colourful automn trees before. Even though this trail isn’t as isolated anylonger, it’s definitely possible to get off trail and enjoy the rugged wilderness of Isla Navarino! 

Day 5. Laguna Rocallosa – Laguna de las Guanacas. 

I had trained my bladder in the last months hiking and didn’t had to get up at night for a long time. Luckily last night I woke up and needed to step out, just so I could admire the stars in a perfectly clear sky. Next time, I wake up to the sunrise. That’s just all I love about sleeping in my tent! 

I start earlier today, but it’s still 9am. And it’s all muddy and wet, my feet are very cold and I can’t get into a rhythm today. I have to hike up to the last pass of this circuit and I hate the muddy forest section today. 

Finally I am out of the forest and on scree hiking gets easier for me. The ascent is now on a gentle uphill slope and I can enjoy the views, back to the mountains, the Beagle Channel, Ushuaia on the other side,…  

Downhill is a pure pleasure, a steep scree/dust slope directly downhill. Just sliding down! 

Nice! Then around Lake los Guanacos and a short rest. It’s not even noon. I could easily walk out today but why? Spend money on a hostel? For sure a warm bed would be nice but I don’t need it for three nights in a row.

 

So I just hike further along the river and find a few camping spots, settling in one of them. It’s damp again everywhere, I look forward to camping on dry ground. It’s just 1.30pm once I am all set so I take a nap and read. I feel quite lonely, not having anything to do for the second day in a row is strange. After spending time with my friend Peggy and then meeting so many nice people on the ship it’s not easy to be on my own again. I enjoyed it for a week but can now feel that I really miss my friends. 

Day 6. Laguna de las Guanacas – Puerto Williams. 

Luckily I had a sheltered campsite last night as it was windy and rainy. But in the morning all is good again. I have time but I cannot sleep too long either nor hang around as it’s cold. 

So I start my descent to the road. On muddy, trail. Muddy forest. Fallen trees. The trail is doing its best to provide a great ending. I get lost and eventually get out of the forest and just walk towards the road I can see further down. Walking through cow shit and more swamp. Wet feet. In the end I am out about at the right place. 

I start walking on the gravel road. After half an hour finally a car passes and 2 gentleman first admire that I did the trail so fast and on my own and then bring me right to the front of my hostel. Of course they don’t speak English and I still don’t speak Spanish but some basic words are sometimes enough. 

I go first confirm my ticket and get already a flight to Punta Arenas tomorrow! Then I buy some freshly baked still warm bread rolls and some cheese for lunch. After a shower I also give my clothes for washing and spend the afternoon with my best friend Wi-Fi. I also walk to the other hostel to see some trail friends again and be less lonely.