A bad morning, my eyes are completely swollen, I am tired and my nose is bleeding… But I am starting anyway at 7h30 and already in Chame I meet another hiker, Amog from India with his guide. It’s again a beautiful day and the sun is shining and it’s nice to talk to someone for a while. The exit of Chame is beautifully marked with mani walls, carved stones and a stupa pass through.

We walk along the river up to Bhratang which is surrounded by apple orchards. Unfortunately they are already out of apples at this time of the year! Today I also meet belgian twins and a couple again and again during the day. We continue through a beautfiful pine forrest and then on the road up to Dhukur Pokhari.

This is where the magic starts – the landscape in the next days is just breathtaking! The valley opens up and the view is incredible why we hike to Upper Pisang.

 

After visiting the Gompa in Upper Pisang, we sit in a nice restaurant with a nice view on the whole valley and soon the others are joining us. It’s nice to have some company and talk to others while enjoying the food and getting some rest. The others want to stay for the night in Upper Pisang but it’s still early so I want to continue to Ghyaru today. The Belgian twins also want to hike to Ice Lake and up to Tilicho Lake, so we will meet again and continue together. It’s also good to get a confirmation that it is not a crazy idea to walk to Ice Lake during your rest day as my guide suggested… unfortunately he is just lazy as I find out again and again.

The hike to Ghyaru is amazing, and even the last part which is a very steep climb doesn’t bother me. I listen to music, watch the sunrays and walk slowly uphill, enjoying every moment. I am so lucky to be here!

In Ghyaru I still have time for a little walk around the traditional village. It’s beautiful but it must be quite hard to live here, espeically in the winter. Back at the guesthouse a German-Austrian couple arrived and we spend the evening talking around the fire. I enjoy a Tibetan soup with homemade noodels, Tukpha, before going to sleep. My room has around 0°C at night which is fine for me because I am really warm and cozy in my sleeping bag… just my nose doesn’t like the cold, it’s bleeding again and again.