A good night of sleep, a beautiful sunraise and a delicious breakfast with Gundruk bread, apple jam, omelett and I am ready me for another hiking day.

Starting at 7h30, I follow the trail downhill in a beautiful rainforest. The birds are singing and I can again really enjoy the hike and the nature. Hiking at my own pace, I feel free and so happy to have the privilege to be here. At 11h30 I am in Chomrong and stop at the Mona Lisa guesthouse for lunch, recommended by the French girl I met yesterday. Once more vegetables, eggs and fried potatoes plus Masala tea and a table outside in the sun with a great view. Today I am even sweating in my T-shirt. I cannot believe I was feeling so cold just a couple of days before (and will again tonight).

Chomrong is built on the hill and made of stairs instead of streets. I walk downhill for about half an hour, sympathizing with the people coming up as I will have to walk up again as well in a few days! But once I have arrived at the river, it’s my turn to hike up again to Sinuwa. But I feel like I can fly again and am even happy walking upstairs. 2h later in Upper Sinuwa I make another tea break and have a nice chat with the owner of the guesthouse who tells me that I should stay in Bamboo tonight as the small guesthouses coming later are already booked by big groups.

On the Annapurna Base Camp trek I meet for the first time bigger groups, especially Asian people. There are two groups of about 15-20 people per group, plus porters and guides. They are very slow (2-3 times slower than me), obviously not used to hiking and very sensitive to the altitude. But they seem to have a tight schedule and walk very long days, arriving after dark – probably as they don’t have many holidays.

Upon the recommendation of the Nepali, I stop at 4pm in Bamboo at a very nice guesthouse where I am the only guest though. I read, have a rest and enjoy the best veggie burger for dinner.