After all those Cerro Torre hikes, I finally need to see Fitz Roy closer. It’s my final day in El Chaltén and I wonder how I managed to stay here 12 days but still I didn’t do all the hikes I planned (but also one unplanned). I will have to come back!
I already packed up everything in the evening as I get up at 6am and check out, leaving my backpack in the hostel. In the moonlight I start to hike up to the Mirador Fitz Roy for an hour, then up a little hill I already scouted last time. I have now view of the Fitz Roy and the sunrise on the other side. It’s still dark when I arrive but with the moon the Fitz Roy seems illuminated. I can see the light of the torches from the hikers going up from Poincenot camp to the Laguna for sunrise.
I am just on my own, off trail and enjoy the view even though it’s getting cold now. But finally the magic is happening again, colouring the Fitz Roy massif in glowing red. It’s gonna be the most beautiful day, no clouds, clear blue sky.
I continue to hike into the valley, surrounded by the colourful lenga trees and walking now on frozen ground. The leaves of the shrub are frozen, covered in ice which is really beautiful (but I am happy I could sleep in a warm bed), especially with the first sun rays reaching the valley now.

It’s a very nice and easy walk until I reach the “wall”, separating me from the Laguna de los Très. There are warnings about how difficult the section is, 400m elevation gained in just 1km. That’s not a problem for me! It’s still tiring and making me sweat but once I am up at the Laguna, every effort is forgotten. I am on my own, the sunrise walkers already left, the day hikers not here yet! I enjoy the view for a long time, the green coloured Laguna changes all the time, sometimes reflecting the mountains and then back to solid greenish colour. Fitz Roy, Poincenot and the other peaks are impressive and towering up there in such harmony.
It’s time to walk back, the way down has now become a highway with people hiking up, for some it seems a big struggle and I admire them for keeping going. I also struggle now, there are a bit steeper steps and my legs still hurt so much from my previous hike that it’s quite painful. But after the 1km steep part it’s again all good and flat, easy to walk. I hike to Laguna Capri where I take another rest and even have a nap.
Then I head back to my hostel, reaching it at 4pm. My bus only leaves at 9pm so I have plenty of time to shower, eat, write my blog,… I will then be sitting in the bus for 22h before reaching my next stop El Bolson, so I am glad I got some exercise today.
You really lucked out with the weather! The countryside looks so different in Autumn colors compared to when I came here in spring. So many reasons come back and explore more!
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And I might come back in spring then! But high season is probably not for me, must be too crowded!
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We were there in November, it still wasn’t too busy. I think Jan and Feb are the busiest times. Spring was magical and worth it!
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Bettina I am so impressed with your photos! They are incredible- like those you see on a calendar or photography book. Maybe you could make a book when you get back to Germany ! You are very talented. I love following your blog and dream now of going to Patagonia and Chille
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Thank you so much Lou! Patagonia is indeed a beautiful place on earth.
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Wow ! Great calculation of the place to be to see the moon on the top of the mountain. Bravo !
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